Trattoria Laurellinos is the much anticipated addition to the Laurel District that opened in March. A sign hangs in front with the golden emblem of a pig, inviting onlookers inside to this quaint Italian family-style eatery. When I enter, I am greeted by the chef and owner, Terrell Santiago, who motions me to sit at a modestly decorated wooden table and offers me a glass of water. Before I even start with the questions, he catches me looking at the Pig emblem on the menu and grins. He can sense my curiosity, but his smile says, "We’ll get to that part. Relax." And I do.

Q: What was it like growing up?
A: I grew up in the Mission District of San Francisco in a culturally diverse neighborhood and household. I’m half Black and half Spanish. In terms of cooking, my mom was my biggest influence. Her name is Norma. Before she worked, she cooked 3 meals a day. My favorite dish of hers is Gumbo! She did it in typical New Orleans style but she’d add something special that made it all her own. When she started working, I knew I had to learn to fend for myself! Even when I make my own now, it never tastes quite like hers. But, I watched Aunts and Cousins too…First you look. Then you learn. Then you taste. I went to school all over the City. Cesar Chavez, Lakeshore, Aptos and then Balboa High School. From there, I went to City and then Idaho State, where I was a business major. I learned that if I could cook, it got me a date. And I had good dates!

Q: What were your earliest experiences in the kitchen?
A: When I was 11, I was the youngest kid hired to work in the kitchen for a boys’ summer camp in Mendocino. The routine was ‘Get up at 5am.Cook oatmeal, grits and pancakes. I cooked breakfast, lunch and dinner for a couple hundred campers everyday. But, I didn’t always “know” I wanted to be a cook. In the early days, it was just something I did to make extra money.

Q: How did you transition into full-time chef? Did you ever wear any other ‘hats?’
A: Well, I was in the Service. I’ve also been a federal fire fighter. For me, it was like cooking really chose me. In 1989, I went to Texas and got a job at Cook’s Night Owl, where they let me have the freedom to create my own dishes as long as it fit with the concept of a high-end deli. From there, I went to a Southwestern cuisine restaurant, then Thai and Italian. I learned a bunch of different styles and I just got lucky. Freedom has always been important to me and it was that freedom that allowed me to create so many unique dishes. The last place I worked at was Maxwell’s’ downtown Oakland. I was there for a little over a year.

Q:It sounds like you always had the entrepreneurial bug. Did you always have a dream of opening an Italian restaurant?
A: I knew I was ready to work for myself. I wanted to give myself a job I loved, create a place that the community felt a part of and create a family environment with my staff. Originally I wanted to open up a deli in San Leandro, where I live now. You know, because I wanted to sleep! (Laughs) But, I drove around everywhere looking at “For Rent” signs and I found myself here in the Laurel District of Oakland. When I spoke with the business owner, I learned that there had been surveys taken in the neighborhood and the community really wanted an Italian restaurant. So, that’s what I gave ‘em!

Q: How did you pick the name and what’s with the Pig?
A: Ah, the pig story. I knew you would want to know that. Well, for a logo, I kept playing around with wine glasses, grapes, you know. The traditional Italian stuff. And nothing clicked. So, I remember I was watching that French film, The Delicatessen, about post-apocalyptic France when meat was scarce. Specifically, there was an apartment complex with a butcher shop at the bottom called the Delicatessen. They tried to lure new tenants in so the butcher could chop them up and serve them as meat for the current tenants. Their blade sign has this pig and I stole their pig. It spoke to me and you gotta go with what speaks to you. (Chuckles) As for the name, I originally wanted it to be “Laurellinas” until a friend said that it wasn’t Italian. So we changed it to Laurellinos.

Q: You are a master chef. You can prepare a dozen different menus. Do you ever feel limited or feel like expanding into a franchise name?
A: No. We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel. I’m not trying to wow anybody. It’s true. There’s a lot of food I could prepare if that was my intention but like I said, this place is about the neighborhood. A family-oriented Italian restaurant, where they can come here and get a good meal for a reasonable price. And I gotta tell ya, the Vesuvio pasta and Lamb are the favorites. And of course, Spaghetti and Meatballs. But, we don’t survive without the neighborhood and that’s kind of the bottom line.

Q: If you didn’t have a restaurant, what would you do?
A: I’d coach football or mentor kids. Well, throughout my cooking career, I’ve always had ‘misfits’ in my kitchen. They were from 16-early 20’s and they were in the ‘system’ in some way. But, I tried to find a way to relate to them and see the part of them that no one else sees. And there are a lot of kids that come in here. (He shows me some crayon-colored pigs on the wall). 8-10 years from now, if the kids keep coming back to add to that wall, that would make me smile. This is my dream. A place that’s not too big. Not too small. A place to put my heart and soul into. To me that’s success.

Q: What was the best advice you ever got?
A: In cooking, it was unspoken advice, but “Layer the Flavors” is something I’ve taken to heart with my business and my personal life. Basically, take a risk and try different things. Also, “Try to laugh and dance as much as you can.” (He points to a plaque above the bar. It reads Accept Differences. Be Kind. Count Your Blessings.)

He winks at me, pushes his chair back and we shake hands. It’s time for the chef to return to his kitchen.

Trattoria Laurellinos (In Oakland's Laurel District)
4171 MacArthur Blvd. Oakland, CA 94619
Tel: 510-530-3600

Trattoria Laurellinos is a nominee at the third Oakland Indie Awards, which celebrate the impact of Oakland's independent businesses and artists. The awards ceremony on May 15th promises to be a great party.

What: The Oakland Indies

When: May 15, 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Where: The Crucible, 1260 7th Street, Oakland.

To buy tickets, click here.